Chilean Sauvignon Blanc (WSJ, 5/26/06)

There are interesting Sauvignon Blancs coming from all over the world these days, but these from Chile have a character of their own. They aren't as sleek and exciting as those from New Zealand, which seem to crackle in the mouth, and don't have the great underlying minerals of those from South Africa. They're lighter, simpler -- and we mean that in a positive way: They taste relaxed, very much like good grapes left alone to make a delightful summer wine, with few pretensions. There's an ease about them that is charming and seductive -- good, honest, dry wines that taste like they were effortless to make and are surely effortless to drink. Many of them retain Sauvignon Blanc's classic varietal green-grass or green-pepper characteristics. We like that -- we find that genuine and true -- but we know that some people don't, and many winemakers all over the world these days seemed determined to strip that out.

The Dow Jones Chilean Sauvignon Blanc Index

In a tasting of Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, these were our favorites. Most of these are good sipping wines on a hot day and go well with light food, especially seafood. Buy and drink them as young as possible.

VINEYARD/VINTAGE	PRICE	RATING	TASTERS' COMMENTS
Morandé 'Terrarum Reserve' 2005 (Casablanca Valley)	$8.99	Very Good	Best of tasting. Nicely herbal, exceptionally clean and quite distinctive. Lightweight and seductive, with true fruit tastes.
Concha y Toro 'Casillero del Diablo' 2005 (Central Valley)	$7.49	Very Good	Best value. Some flowers on the nose. Lovely, clean and classy. A hint of varietal grassiness, but a great deal of restraint. Real finesse.
Miguel Torres 'Santa Digna' 2005 (Curicó Valley)	$9.99	Very Good	Sprightly, nose-tickling smells of lime and fruit, with tastes that dance on the tongue. Ripe lime tastes with some minerals and a long, dry, mineral finish. Effortless and genuine.
Anakena 2005 (Rapel Valley)	$7.99	Good/Very Good	Stealth wine: It seems simple and light, but then leaves your mouth with all sorts of marvelous, juicy, lime tastes, so you simply must take another sip.
La Playa 2005 (Colchagua Valley)	$6.59	Good/Very Good	Crisp, lively, fun and light as air. Tastes like sunshine.
Santa Rita 'Reserva' 2005 (Casablanca Valley)	$9.99	Good/Very Good	Face-slapping, green pepper nose. Unabashed about being a grassy, varietal Sauvignon Blanc. Very lively and fun. Have this with salad.