WSJ-Recommended Merlots (3/10/06

The Dow Jones Inexpensive Merlot Index

In a tasting of 50 American Merlots that cost less than $20, these were our favorites. These are generally better closer to cellar temperature -- 55 degrees -- than room temperature. Most of the Merlots we tasted are ready to drink now, though some, such as the Coppola, will improve with a little age.

VINEYARD/VINTAGE	PRICE	RATING	TASTERS' COMMENTS
Francis Coppola 'Diamond Collection' Blue Label (California) 2003	$13.99	Very Good/Delicious	Best of tasting. Fine wine, rich and structured. Terrific fruit, with balanced tastes and some heft. Would go well with a good steak.
Hogue Cellars (Columbia Valley) 2003	$9.49	Good/Very Good	Best value. Rich, earthy nose and a great, dark color. Slightly chewy -- not at all weak -- with real earth and even a hint of chocolate. Honest red wine.
Turning Leaf Vineyards 'Coastal Reserve' 2002 (North Coast)	$10.50	*Very Good	Truly earthy and utterly easy to drink, with soft, blackberry fruit. No structure, no edges, just lovely, drink-me fruit.
Cartlidge & Browne (California) 2003	$9.99	*Good/Very Good	Another winner from a reliable name. It smells like wine and tastes like wine -- and too many Merlots don't. A happy wine you could almost gulp. Drink now.
Firestone Vineyard (Santa Ynez Valley) 2002	$14.99	Good/Very Good	Unusual and interesting, with a rock-hard, very dry center and the kind of tight fruit that would make it good with food like meatloaf.
Frei Brothers Winery (Dry Creek Valley) 2003	$17.99	*Good/Very Good	Dark, rich color and a nice, grapey nose. A core of black, grapey fruit, with some pepper, spice and herbs. Soft and pleasant, but with some stuff.
Martin Ray Winery 'Angeline' (Sonoma County) 2002	$10.99	Good/Very Good	Rounder and fuller than most, with an interesting, complex texture. Complete and integrated.